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DIY diy tutorialnotepadrefillablechicago screws

DIY Standing Refillable Notepad: Desk Pad with a Fold-Out Easel Back

Standing refillable notepad with custom designs
Standing refillable notepad with custom designs

Seven chipboard panels wrapped in one printed sheet fold into a desk easel, and two Chicago screws let you swap the pages when the pad runs out.

A standing refillable notepad is a notepad and its own easel: seven chipboard panels wrapped in one printed sheet, folded so the back props the pad up on the desk. Two Chicago screws hold the pages, so when the pad runs out you unscrew it and drop in a fresh stack instead of building the whole thing again.

These tutorials use Planify Pro, a drag-and-drop tool for designing printable planners and stationery. Building and editing is free — exporting a PDF needs a plan, from $9.99/month.

Get the template

Open it in Planify Pro to change the size, colours or pattern before printing — or print it exactly as it is.

Export and print

Export two PDFs — one for the inserts, one for the cover — because they print on different stock. The inserts go on plain paper, and several fit on a single A4 or US Letter sheet, so gang them up rather than printing one page per sheet.

The cover goes on white glossy sticker paper and prints at a larger scale than the inserts: it has to wrap chipboard 10.4cm wide and still fold over the edges, so it needs to come out wider than the pages it holds. The finished cover runs about 32cm end to end, which is longer than an A4 sheet — expect it to arrive as two sheets you join.

Scale is the step to watch. The chipboard measurements in step 3 below assume the cover prints at the size given, so if you change the insert size or print at anything other than the intended scale, measure your printed cover before cutting any board.

What You'll Need

Sheet of grey chipboard book board

Chipboard 1.2mm

Pack of white glossy printable sticker paper

Glossy Sticker Paper

Ream of plain paper for printing the notepad inserts

Paper for Inserts

Heavy duty guillotine paper cutter

Guillotine Cutter

Bone Folder

Hole Punch

Chicago Screws

Scissors and a ruler do everything the guillotine does, just more slowly. A hand-held plier punch is worth having alongside a desk punch — it is the only one that reaches into the folded cover.

Instructions

1. Print, cut out and peel. Trim each printed piece back to its edge, then peel the backing off the cover sheets. Glossy sticker paper grabs on contact, so peel only the part you are about to stick down.

Hands peeling the yellow-printed backing liner away from a sheet of inkjet sticker paper

2. Join the two cover sheets into one strip. The full cover is longer than a sheet of A4, so it prints in two parts. Line them up and smooth them into a single strip before any board goes near it.

Both hands smoothing a long pink pumpkin-patterned cover strip flat on a white desk

3. Measure out seven chipboard panels. All seven are 10.4cm (4.09in) wide and cut from 1.2mm chipboard. Numbered from the front piece upward, the heights are 2.5cm, 1cm, 14.5cm, 1cm, 1.2cm, 4.5cm and 5.5cm. The 14.5cm panel is the writing back; the 1cm and 1.2cm strips are hinges, and the two panels above them fold behind it to make the stand.

Diagram headed Entire Cover, materials chipboard 1.2mm, showing seven stacked panels 10.4cm wide with heights from 1cm to 14.5cm and 3.7mm gaps between them

4. Cut them out and number them. Rule the panels onto the board, write the number on each one before you cut, then cut with scissors or a craft knife. Five of the seven are within a couple of centimetres of each other and a swapped pair throws the whole fold sequence out.

Three frames of chipboard marked in pen with panel numbers and measurements, being cut apart with scissors

5. Lay the panels on the cover with a 3.7mm gap between each. The gaps are the hinges — chipboard will not bend, but the sticker sheet spanning the gap will. Butt the panels up against each other and the case cannot fold. Leave a margin all round, trim the corners at an angle, then fold the margin in.

Three frames: chipboard panels spaced in a row on the patterned sticker sheet, the margin folded over the edges, and a corner trimmed against a ruler

6. Line the inside and press into every gap. Stick the second, smaller cover sheet over the exposed board so the folded margins are hidden, then run a bone folder down each gap. Pressing the sheet into the gap rather than flat across it is what gives each hinge a fold line to work with.

A wooden bone folder pressing the lining sheet down into the gap between two chipboard panels

7. Crease every hinge. Fold the case at each gap in turn and run the bone folder along the crease. A soft fold springs back, and a case that springs back leans on the desk instead of standing on it.

Three frames of the finished patterned cover being folded and creased along its hinges with a bone folder

8. Punch the inserts as one stack. Punch the whole pad in one go rather than a handful at a time. Every sheet then carries its holes in the same place, which is what lets you refill the notepad later without touching the cover again.

A black two-hole desk punch clamped over a stack of lined notepad inserts

9. Mark the cover from a punched insert. Sit a punched sheet on the cover exactly where the pad will sit and pencil through its holes. Measuring the cover independently is how the holes end up a few millimetres off and the pages never sit straight.

A pencil marking hole positions on the cover through a punched lined insert, with the desk punch behind

10. Punch the cover. A hand-held plier punch reaches into the folded case where a desk punch cannot. Take it slowly — 1.2mm board under sticker paper needs real pressure, and a punch that slips tears the printed surface.

A hand-held plier punch making a hole through the top edge of the folded patterned cover

11. Fit the Chicago screws. Post in from the back, cap on the front, and tighten only until the pages stop sliding. Screwed down hard, the top sheets are pinched flat and will not turn.

Gold Chicago screw heads set through the top of the lined pages as the pages are turned back

12. Fold the back into its easel and stand it up. That is the build. When the pad runs out, undo the two screws, drop in a fresh stack of printed inserts and close it again — the case is the part you only make once.

The finished notepad standing upright on a desk, lined pages with a pumpkin motif held by two gold screws

Troubleshooting

The case leans instead of standing. The hinge creases are too soft. Fold each gap fully closed and press the crease down with a bone folder — the fold has to hold its own shape, because nothing else is bracing the stand.

The sticker paper splits along a hinge. The gap between those two panels was too tight. 3.7mm gives the sheet enough slack to bend; panels laid edge to edge force the paper to fold over a hard board corner and it tears there on the second or third fold.

Holes in the cover do not line up with the pages. The cover was measured rather than marked from a punched insert. Re-punch a fresh cover panel using a finished sheet as the template.

The pages will not turn freely. Either the screws are over-tightened, or the stack is too thick for the screw posts you have. Chicago screws come in several post lengths — match the post to the pad depth rather than forcing it.

Selling these

Refillable products sell twice. The case is where the material cost and the labour sit; the refills are printed paper and two holes, so once someone owns the stand they come back for pages rather than for another notepad. Price the case with a first pack of inserts included, and list refill packs separately.

The cover is a single printed sheet, which makes seasonal variants nearly free — the same seven panels take a different pattern with no change to the build. That is a straightforward way to run autumn, festive and back-to-school versions off one product photo set.

It also bundles well: a stand plus refills plus a matching pen reads as a desk set rather than a notepad, and prices accordingly.

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